The Revival of Bangkok's Chao Phraya Riverfront: A Blend of Tradition and Modernity

A Journey Through Hidden Waters

Jern, a Bangkok interior designer whose full name is Irinrat Prasongchaikul, invited me to join her and a half-dozen local friends for a sunset cruise on her vintage cruiser. She said, „I bought this boat to explore the river's hidden places,” as we chugged across the terra-cotta-colored waters of the Chao Phraya River, also known as the River of Kings. Built in 1957, the boat’s polished-wood deck, shaded by a canopy, evoked the colonial-era seafaring days of Joseph Conrad.

Exploring the Western Banks and Quiet Canals

The boatman steered us past the majestic Wat Arun, Temple of Dawn, to Thonburi, the less-frequented western side of the waterway. We then entered a dreamy klong, or canal. Jern remarked, „I grew up in Bangkok knowing that the Chao Phraya was important,” while popping open an iced bottle of Champagne. „But there's so much that has been forgotten.”

A Glimpse into Traditional Klong Life

Jern led us ashore to her favorite temple, the rarely visited Wat Ratchaorasaram. Though the compound had just closed for the day, she asked the abbot if we might sneak in for a look. In the inner sanctum, an orange-robed monk paused his vacuuming so we could admire how every inch of the ceiling and walls was covered with ancient imagery of Buddhist gods and miracles.

Dinner by the Water and a Moment of Reflection

As darkness fell, we docked at the rickety pier of a family-run eatery. We enjoyed squid in black sauce, spicy hot-and-sour tom yum soup, and giant river prawns. For the final coup de théâtre, we chugged along the now silent canals to the floodlit Phra Buddha Dhammakaya Thepmongkhon, also known as the Big Buddha—a 226-foot-tall golden image of the seated spiritual leader. Jern gave each of us a bowl containing a lit candle. We made a secret wish, placed our bowl in the still, moonlit water, and watched mesmerized as they floated like fireflies into the inky darkness.

The Sacred Role of Water in Thai Culture

Sam Chirnside captured the golden hour in Bangkok Yai's canal district, with a view of the Big Buddha. Jern explained, „Water in every form is revered in Thailand, and the Chao Phraya has special status. As a Thai, I was always taught to respect the water goddess, Phra Mae Khongkha, who is associated with purification and fertility. We are taught that we can live without electricity, but water is our first resource.”

A Personal Rediscovery of the River’s Significance

When I first visited Bangkok a decade ago, I became fascinated by the revival of the Chao Phraya, which was the true heart of the city for centuries. In the capital ceremonially named Krung Thep—the City of Angels—the golden-roofed temples of the royal district of the Kingdom of Siam rose along its banks in the 18th century. Although Thailand is one of the few Asian countries never to have been colonized, it was here that European powers built their legations, warehouses, and hotels in the 1800s.